Kampala, 2012

On my last morning I have a few hours to pack and send final emails to make sure I leave no loose ends. Just after noon, my taxi arrives driven by Anthony – an accountant turned taxi-driver who’s picked me up from Kisimenti a few times. I say goodbye to the Guest House staff and… Continue reading Kampala, 2012

Kampala, 2012

I’m writing this on my last day in Uganda before I take the Entebbe flight. The Femrite workshops covered a lot of ground in three days, but were too compressed to allow ideas to percolate, as I would have liked. The groups have now formed an editorial teams to revise and present material for a… Continue reading Kampala, 2012

Kampala, 2012

Tuesday’s rain turns into a beautiful evening of faint clouds and mild sunshine. I take a walk through the campus: part University, part African village and part botanical garden. Pied crows, cattle egret and hadada ibis pick over the lawns. A huge flight of marabou stork circles on thermals, effortlessly elegant. The ones nesting overhead… Continue reading Kampala, 2012

Kampala, 2012

Sunday is overtaken up by a rainstorm that brings squalls of cloud and makes the roads in Wandegaya red with mud. By Monday morning the sky is still overcast, with intermittent sun. I buy a local SIM card and try to organize my communications: two phones, one laptop, several haphazard Wi-Fi servers. Eventually, I make… Continue reading Kampala, 2012

Kampala, 2012

Sunday morning in Kampala is overcast and humid. A church bell tolls as I write and Makerere campus is already wide awake with the singing from church services which seems to collide, rising and falling through faint traffic and birdcalls. Two days ago I was watching red grouse and curlews on the moors behind Lancaster,… Continue reading Kampala, 2012